Question:

Do you have any tips for cutting nails? Our 2 yr old beagle has to be muzzled and my husband has to hold her down across his lap. She screams even before I clip. It’s such an ordeal for all of us.

Answer:

Makes sure your nail trimmers are the pliers type and they are sharp. You want to cut not pinch or crush.

Firstly, Beagles HATE to have their nails done. Secondly, Dogs pick up on our emotions. It is difficult to hide our apprehension of doing a certain task from our dogs. But, that is the first thing you need to do. You need to be totally relaxed. Your tension will come across as insecurity. And this will increase your dog’s unwillingness to cooperate.

Aside from the mental and emotional aspects, You can start with desensitization. Keep the nail trimmers out and touch her with them on her body, head, and feet. Bribe her with lots of treats. Some dogs can’t tolerate the feel of metal on nails. For others it is the sound of the clippers snapping shut. Does she fight when you hold her? If yes, you can desensitize her for that as well. Does she HATE the muzzle or does it calm her?

I had a client that used cheese wiz to do things that her dog hated. He looked like a baby with his bottle.

As far as special holding techniques, that changes with each dog. It sounds like that hold would work. I think things will get better with time and being calm. Don’t feed into her panicked energy. Do one nail per session and don’t release her until she is calm. Have a session where you just touch her nails with the clippers and again, don’t release her until she is calm.

It may seem overly complicated answer to a common problem. But, you are working with a living being’s psyche.

A dog has ten clear stages of psychological development which affect how it interacts with people and other animals and controls its behavior in situations dependent on its age. Puppies develop through clearly recognizable stages, each one being characterized by certain behavior patterns and emotional reactions. These have been called The Ten Stages and are discussed in further detail below.

1. Pre-Natal Period
Environmental factors that affect the pregnant bitch also affect the subsequent development of the puppies mind. This is why it is critical to give the bitch good all round care.

2. Neo-Natal Period (0-2 weeks)
During this period the dog spends around 90% of its time asleep. The hearing, vision and temperature regulation are under developed and the pup’s brain is barely myelinated. The way in which a dam behaves with her offspring will greatly influence its behavior in later life.

3. Transitional Period (2-4 weeks)
During this period, the sensory abilities come on line, the eyelids open and the first set of teeth appear, the dog will wag his tail and bark for the first time, at this time the litter mates play a much more important role.
By four weeks of age, hearing, pain, touch and vision responses are similar to that of an adult, the brain is almost fully myelinated and the dog is ready for complex learning.

4. Socialization Period (To Dogs – 4-6 weeks / To Dogs Humans 4-12 weeks)
From 3 ½ weeks the pups begin to interact playfully. From this age the pup learns through play, how much pain they can inflict on each other as a result of chewing and biting.
The facial expressiveness of the puppy at five weeks contrasts to the mask like appearance of the puppy at three weeks. This is due to the development of expressive ear movements, elongation of the muzzle and the improved functions of the muscles that control the lips.
At 4-5 weeks of age, puppies frequently carry small objects in their mouths and engage in tugs of war. A defensive protective pattern emerges, in which the pup vigorously guards an object or food. Several puppies may follow one litter mate who is carrying something in its mouth. These are the first signs of coordinated group activity, or pack performance and dominant and submissive behavior.
This is the optimum time for the dog to establish social relations with other dogs, humans and other species.
Scott and Fuller describe this period as a special time in life when a small amount of experience will produce a great effect on later behaviour.

5. First Fear Impact Period (8-11 weeks)
Any traumatic experience, whether it be frightening or painful will have a more lasting impact on the puppy now, than if it had occurred at any other time in its life.

6. Juvenile Period (12 weeks to maturity)
Most of what occurs in this period will be determined by what went on before. The dog will experience gradual improvement of the motor skills as he grows in strength and activity. Consistency is the key during this period, ensuring the dog knows its boundaries is key to guaranteeing that you don’t have unwelcome behaviour. If the dog hasn’t developed normally through the previous stages, then socialization must take place during this stage.

7. Seniority Classification Period (4-8 months)
This is often referred to as the ‘Age Of Cutting Teeth’. This period is defined by the dogs test for leadership, very similar to teenage children; the dog will test all members of his pack for weaknesses and then, if allowed, exert his authority and move higher within the pack position.

8. Flight Instinct Period (4-8 months)
Turning a deaf ear is classic behaviour in this period; the dog will often disobey commands, run away, or turn a deaf ear. It can last a few days or weeks and is again, a test of the owner’s position in the pack.

9. Second Fear Impact (6-14 months)
This is a stage that most people do not understand. It could occur once, or several times, depending on the dog. It is marked by a sudden change in behaviour of the now adolescent dog who may suddenly be reluctant to approach something new, or be frightened of something, or someone familiar. The way in which an owner reacts in this stage is crucial to the dog’s normal development.

10. Maturity (1-3 years)
Maturity is a very vague stage, as some breeds do not mature until they are 3-4 years, however, whenever the maturity is reached, it is usually marked by a renewed test for leadership of the pack, especially in male dogs and again, the way in which the owner responds to this is critical.
The way in which breeders, handlers and owners respond to a dogs behaviour is crucial at all the above stages of development, one mistake and the dogs development could quite easily be set back. This would then need further work and training to ensure the dog grows into a well adjusted, social animal, comfortable in all surroundings.

The number one issue between pet owners and groomers is whether their pet has mats. There is a varying degree of matting. The factors involved in judging the degree are: surface area, thickness, and density. Besides the degree of matting, the dog’s coat type determines the ease of dematting. Terriers have a harder coat, this makes it easier to brush out. Goldendoodles have softer coats and typically come in matted.

Before mats develop, they are just dead hair falling out and getting caught in longer hair. This is were the proficiency of the owner’s at home maintenance comes into the equation. The best thing you can do for yourself and your pet, is be realistic about how much brushing and combing you want to do and how good you are. You can have a haircut at a length you can maintain or have your pet groomed more often. The cycle of BBN(Bath, Brush, and Nails), BBN, Shave down, and start over, is not necessary. By finding a haircut you like, at a length your pet and groomer likes, you can break this cycle. We groomers hate being the bad guy and being set up for failure. Dematting hurts, we do our best to not cause pain, but depending on the degree of matting there is some hair pulling.

So when you are looking at that show dogs with long flowing hair or full fancy haircut, think about what it takes to keep up with that style.

Yes, dry itchy skin is a problem in Colorado. But, we also have fleas, lice, and ticks in Colorado. So, is it dry skin or is it bugs? How can you tell? The easiest and simplest way to tell is if the “flakes” are all the same shape and the dog is constantly scratching. In this case, it could be lice.

With each summer we groomers are seeing an increase in the number of cases. My own personal theory is more dogs are going to open spaces and doggy daycare, and at the same time wildlife are losing their inner city homes and moving into our yards.

The good news about lice, as opposed to fleas, is that they are species specific and live their whole lives on the dog. The bad news is that there are two types (biting and sucking), and killing them is more complicated. It takes shampoo, dips and a precise schedule.

You should let your veterinarian or groomer treat your dog because these shampoos and dips are poisonous and can harm your pet if accidently misused.

This is an article about lice that I found helpful: Dog lice - lice in dogs - Article on Pets.ca. But, just like I said, check with your veterinarian before you treat dog lice yourself.

Poor little Beignet is saying ”Orevwa” to her unwelcome guests.